If you pump the shotgun too easily, (i.e. Never ever, mix shotgun gauge shells in a pouch or box. This type of accident is not to be taken lightly! this is why shotgun shells of different gauges are different in color normally. Shooters call this a "20/12" catastrophic failure. the gun can blow up and cause serious harm, blindness or even death in rare cases to the shooter. Most of the time if a 12 gauge shell gets loaded behind that one and fired you will have catastrophic failures, i.e. Many times a slight bulge in the barrel may not be visually obvious. If someone had loaded a 20, 16 or similar smaller guage shell in the chamber by accident and the gun was fired it will usually cause at minimum a stressed and bulged barrel. If you detect or suspect a bulge do not shoot or load the shotgun until a gunsmith or the factory check the barrel thoroughly. Run your fingers along the barrel and visually check it for any slight bulge. in these areas will cause problems you have described. or bb's, (shot) in the receiver and chamber area. Improperly re-loaded shells can also cause leaks of bb's, (shot) in to the receiver and bore area.Ĭheck for a loose bb. Sloppy reloading of shotgun shells can cause jams as you describe. If you are shooting reloaded ammo make sure it has been properly re-sized, crimped and reloaded.
This could also indicate you have a improper shell length issue. Look at the empty shell casings if you have any and see if the shell appears to be damaged from the chambered and firing process. If you are jamming 3" shells in to a 2 3/4" shotgun you will get jams as you describe. After making absolutely sure you have an unloaded shotgun, both chamber and magazine are empty, empty, empty, proceed with these few checks.Īssuming it may be a 2 3/4' model, have you double checked on the left side of the barrel near the receiver? There will be gauge and shell length stampings on the barrel. If the 870 is a Magnum model it should accept 3" shells. If you make any adjustments, make various and numerous tests with-out nails to make sure that it will not fire accidently.
If you are a tinker-er, you can make adjustment to inner lever so that it will make constant contact (the rotary dial on triggers that are made to give you a choice of bump or single actually make the inner lever longer or shorter ). With trigger released, depress safety and notice that safety contacts inner trigger liver and will remain in contact untill you press the trigger at which time the inner lever will depress the firing pin then fall away from safety. On single fire triggers, the inner lever can make contact with safety only when trigger is in the resting position. will not contact inner trigger lever because the lever is too short to allow safety to make contact with it. On single fire trigger, with trigger pressed, when you push on safety foot, the mech. will push up on the inner lever each time that you press in safety (and you will see that the inner lever will depress the firing pin). On bump fire trigger, the safety foot mech. With trigger pressed in, push the safety foot in and notice if the safety contacts the inner trigger lever. If no setting, look at how the safety foot contacts the trigger's inner trip lever (the trip lever inside the trigger is what actually contacts the firing valve pin). It will have a rotary dial to select single or repeat fire. Take a close look at the trigger itself looking for a bump fire setting. Remove gun from air supply and remove the nails (for safety). It depends on the type of trigger and the firing valve that the trigger contacts.
I have a friend whose birthday is next month and he’d love this old gal.Not all nailers have the ability to bump-fire. These are a bit more sophisticated.Įventually I bought it for $95.00, including taxes. They were a hinged breech block that opened like a trap door. It was the first standard breech loading rifle adopted by the US Army. When it comes to Trap Doors, I always thing of the Model 1873 Trapdoor Springfield. There’s no wear and tear on it and except for some small rust spots, she’d be NIB, if I had the box. She confirmed that they were made from 1961-1979 but could not offer further assistance. She said that about 6 years ago when the company changed hands again they got no records on the M-49s. I called Ithaca Customer Service at 1-87. I’ve found reputed reports of ones being made in 1968 with a SN of 307XX, and with a SN of 295,523 in 1979.
ITHACA MODEL 49 SINGLE SHOT 22 SERIAL
This one’s packing a 1490XX serial number. Prior to 1965 M-49s didn’t have serial numbers. Depending on the shooter these old gals weren’t nail drivers, but more suited to pop tin cans. You then have to cock the hammer to fire the weapon. Close the lever and the breech action closes. You pull down on the lever and the dropping, tilting block action action opens and you insert a single round. The M-49 uses a modified Martini Breech System.
0 kommentar(er)
